Title:Home Clean-up and Renovation:  Walls
Author: Virginia Peart
Date: 1992


Home Clean-up and Renovation:  Walls
Virginia Peart

DRYING WALLS

                          Inner Walls

     Walls must dry from the inside out.  The interior framing of
walls should be allowed to dry thoroughly.  Sometimes this
process takes weeks or even months.  To release water and mud
from walls, remove top and bottom strips of siding on the outside
of the building.  Drill several holes in walls near the inside
floor line.

     The total drying time will depend partially on the amount of
dry air that can circulate through the studding (called "chimney
action").  To provide for maximum chimney action, first consider
the construction of the building.


                  Fire Stops or Cross Bracing

     These are horizontal or diagonal braces between the vertical
supports or studs.

     Cross bracing will prevent chimney action between the
studding.  However, cross bracing is not usually found in modern
construction, except in two-story houses where it has been
specified.  To allow free air movement, remove interior or
exterior wall covering wherever cross braces are located.  To
check for cross bracing or fire stops, extend a stiff wire into
the wall cavity.


                           Insulation

     Most types of insulation will be ruined if water-soaked.
You will probably have to replace flood-soaked insulation.

 1.  Loose fill (such as vermiculite) will settle to the bottom
     of walls.  As it dries it can be removed.  If not removed,
     loose fill insulation will create odors and eventually cause
     decay of the studding.

 2.  Rock wool batting insulation will also bunch and settle.  If
     it is absorbent it will create odors and could eventually
     cause studding decay.

 3.  Fiberglass batting will also bunch, but may not develop
     odors.  Its insulating value will be greatly reduced if it
     is not thoroughly dry or if it settles and leaves areas at
     the top of walls unprotected.

 4.  Reflective surfaces (such as aluminum foil) will probably
     lose their reflective ability, thus decreasing their
     insulation effectiveness.  The material itself should be
     undamaged.


                  Wall Coverings and Finishes

 1.  Plaster will take weeks or even months to dry, but may not
     be ruined by water.  Old plaster, however, may disintegrate
     after being wet for a long time.

 2.  Dry wall (plaster board) will warp and disintegrate in
     water.  Warping above the water level can also be expected.
     Drywall that has been submerged must be replaced.

 3.  Laminated paneling (plywood, masonite) will separate and
     warp above and below the water level.  The extent of damage
     will depend on how long the paneling was submerged and how
     quickly moisture is removed from the studding.  Slow drying
     decreases the possibility of delamination.


                             Siding

 1.  Masonry will dry slowly but will be undamaged except for
     possible cracking  or settling.  Open the inside walls to
     prevent mildew and decay of wooden supports.

 2.  Lapped siding (wood, asbestos, aluminum).  Remove strips or
     sections to dry insulation and studding.  The type of
     sheathing will determine drying rate.  To prevent oxidation,
     make sure backing of aluminum siding is dry.


       Sheathing (Material Between Studding and Finish Siding)

 1.  Wooden boards will dry slowly and some will warp.  If
     possible, re-nail warped areas before they dry.  Replace
     those that are too badly warped to salvage.

 2.  Sheathing board is usually absorbent and will be difficult
     to dry.  Some will disintegrate or separate and must be
     replaced.

 3.  Plywood will probably separate and must be replaced.  Marine
     plywood will not warp or separate, but is generally
     considered too expensive to use in residential construction
     unless the building is subject to frequent flooding.


                     CLEANING INTERIOR WALLS

 1.  If walls have been flooded, hose them down, if possible,
     while they are still damp to remove most of the mud and
     silt.

 2.  Scrub with a sponge and a warm detergent solution or a
     commercial cleaner.  Clean a small section of the wall at a
     time.

 3.  To get rid of the stench that often accompanies flooding,
     rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons sodium hypochlorite
     laundry bleach (such as Purex or Clorox) to a gallon of
     water.  Repeat the scrubbing and rinsing several times if
     necessary.  Household disinfectants such as Lysol can also
     be used.  Follow directions on container.

 4.  Work from the floor to the ceiling to prevent streaking.
     Rinse with an old bath towel wrung out in clear water.
     Overlap sections.

 5.  Clean the ceiling last.

 6.  Allow walls to dry thoroughly before repainting, repairing
     plaster, papering or applying any wall covering.  Four to
     six weeks should be allowed as a minimum drying time.  Total
     drying time will depend on weather conditions.  You may need
     to remove baseboards or sections of the walls to dry
     interior studding and insulation (see Drying Walls section).

 7.  If mildew appears on walls, scrub with a solution of
     trisodium phosphate, a disinfectant or a solution of 1/2 cup
     bleach and 1/2 cup mild detergent in a gallon of warm water.